Experience the Thrill of the Sardine Run
The Sardine Run is one of nature’s most incredible phenomena, drawing wildlife enthusiasts and adventure seekers from around the world to South Africa.
The Greatest Shoal on Earth
The biggest bucket list adventure off land. Sardine Run by Tonya Khoury Welcome to the Sardine Run. The most extraordinary adventure on earth. Sharks, huge duskey sharks, bronze whalers, squadrons of dive-bombing gannets, and dolphin megapods. This is the Studio 54 of the underwater world: a cacophony of deafening sound; a metaphysically uproarious chaos, and tramps like us, baby we were born to run! Why would they call an off land event a “run”? Here’s the rub. The predators ‘run’ after those bait balls as if it were the chase they had prepared for their entire lives. The boats “run” to catch the action and the divers and snorkelers ‘run’ (underwater) to keep up. I had several fears for this trip: I’m old, I get cold (very cold), and I get sea-sick. I had a ton of excuses which would suffice to say no. But I have had this dream since time and memorial, and now at 50 I finally had the opportunity to drop my defenses and open up to a nudge in ribs from the Shark Man, Walter Bernadis, my extraordinary friend and fearless leader who is the owner and shark diving pioneer of African Watersports based in Umkomaas. Over a period of many years, I’ve watched Walter, usually in a centre of a ring of bull sharks where he seems most comfortable, do the most incredible things with these misunderstood creatures, while they circle curiously around him. The man who removes hooks, the tonic master. When I first started shark diving, I learnt to always listen to exactly what Walter said, and as a result, have always had the time of my life. So, naturally, when the time came, Walter was my only choice. I thought, I’ll be safe and just like with shark diving and I was right: Only dive / run with the best. Driving down to Port St Johns left me dumbstruck. I’ve always heard the Transkei was breathtaking and here I was between two large crags, the river cutting through unsullied land into the wild coast’s Indian Ocean. The most astonishing, untamed, untouched landscape with pristine beaches, dramatic cliffs, rolling hills, and lush forests. It is a region of exceptional natural beauty and there were moments when I wished I could stay just a little while longer to avoid the feeling of melancholy as I watched the beauty flash by. Everyone warned me about the launch, but I had no fear for that; I’d been with Walter and Top Man Thunzi before, and surfing waves with a boat is something they both make look easy. My biggest apprehension was the cold, and my goodness, I was right. I had a big ass jacket, literally three times too big for me so that I could curl up in it, two beanies, a neck scarf and gloves. Turns out I wasn’t the only one prepared for cold as one of our teammates, Lorenzo Pilati, came with two hot water bottles for his feet, I was envious, and he was generous, sharing his pink flamingo covered water bottle with all on board. And as we raced headlong into the sound and the fury I remembered Walter’s description of what was about to take place: “It is going to feel as if we are being lured into a gravitational tornado of movement from above and below”. On arrival we could see thousands of Cape Gannets diving and hitting the silver silhouette of the bait ball that spins below the surface, desperately trying to keep itself together as if a secret pact had been agreed upon, and dolphins putting on an aerial display, flying into the air, jumping and twirling. And then back into the fray; the fray that we were about to jump into. Everything including the cold disappeared when I was given my first “Go” and landed right next to a humpback whale that hung suspended in the water waiting for me to applaud it. I had to remind myself to breathe. The enormity of this creature was heart-stopping. It is indescribable, the feeling of being next to a mammal that weighs tonnes. You feel insignificant, and the thought of being swallowed, of disappearing for eternity, crossed my mind. Instead, with the smallest of eyes, a look of such deep intensity; a spiritual connection that is beyond belief … and words fail me. Colossal, yet so incredibly aware of the space it occupies. Several times humpbacks came so close that their pectoral fins almost touched us and one can only believe that they didn’t touch us deliberately. We were in the presence of something so great. I am told that not everyone sees what I saw on the run, and I still don’t feel like I saw enough. Below the surface the birds made my eyes wide. Once they hit the water, they resemble bombs; the speed cuts a trail behind them that is almost cartoonish as my mind translates their sunny air assault into picture bubbles under water. They gobble up sardines as they dive bomb, three or four at a time and they swim with their wings as if they’d been created as half bird /half fish. Then they bob up like a buoy line trapped under water. The sound of it alone reminds you that you are in Africa and this is truly the Wild Coast. The dolphins are juggling tasks, and there was not a day that wasn’t filled with dolphins singing and clicking as they corralled the sardines into a ball. Torpedoes in the water, dolphins are extraordinarily fast and, strangely enough, know exactly where you are and that you are not food. Often, they wink or smile as they go past and some even say there’s the occasional “teehee” amongst their calls. You’ll think I’m mad, but that’s the truth. I couldn’t believe there could be more to this experience, but the truth is, we had just begun. I spent nine days with the AWS crew and every day
Sardine Run 2023 – Witnessing Nature’s Greatest Spectacle
The Ocean becomes a stage for an intricate Dance of Life & Death, as predator and prey engage in a captivating battle for survival. The Sardine Run is an awe-inspiring event that draws nature enthusiasts, photographers, and marine biologists from all around the globe to witness a breathtaking display of marine life off the coast of South Africa. The Sardine Run, also known as the “Greatest Shoal on Earth,” is a phenomenon where millions of sardines migrate in shoals along the South African coastline, creating a feeding frenzy and attracting a plethora of marine predators. As we delve into this incredible event, join us on an unforgettable journey through the ocean depths to explore the wonders of the Sardine Run 2023. The Sardine Run Phenomenon: Every year, between May and July, the Sardine Run takes place along the eastern coast of South Africa. It is believed to be triggered by the cooling waters of the Benguela Current slipping in betweenthe land and the great Aghulas Current, which attracts massive schools of sardines from the Aghulas Banks The Arrival of the Sardines: The anticipation builds as the sardines approach the shores of the Transkei, the Wild Coast of South Africa. As they make their way closer to the coastline, they are often accompanied by other marine creatures, including dolphins, sharks, seals, and a variety of seabirds. These animals join the frenzy in pursuit of the abundant food source that the sardines provide. Diving into the Spectacle: Scuba divers and snorkelers eagerly plunge into the waters to witness the spectacular event up close. The sight of dolphins herding the sardines into tight balls, birds diving from the sky to snatch them from the water’s surface, and sharks patrolling the edges of the shoals is nothing short of breathtaking. The ocean becomes a stage for an intricate dance of life and death, as predator and prey engage in a captivating battle for survival. Conservation and Sustainability: While the Sardine Run is undoubtedly a magnificent display of nature’s wonders, it also serves as a reminder of the delicate balance within marine ecosystems. The sardine population plays a crucial role in the ocean food web, and their decline could have far-reaching consequences for various marine species. Conservation efforts are paramount to ensure the sustainability of this natural phenomenon for generations to come. The Ecotourism Impact: The Sardine Run has become a boon for ecotourism in the region. Responsible tour operators and marine biologists lead expeditions that prioritize the safety and well-being of marine life. By promoting responsible tourism practices, the local economy benefits while maintaining the sanctity of this unique event. Capturing the Sardine Run: Photographers and videographers find themselves in a paradise of visual riches during the Sardine Run. The high-octane action and stunning underwater scenes provide ample opportunities to capture once-in-a-lifetime shots. These images not only serve as mementos for the participants but also raise awareness about the beauty and fragility of the marine world. Conclusion: The Sardine Run 2023 has proven to be an awe-inspiring event, showcasing nature’s grand spectacle in all its glory. This incredible migration of millions of sardines, accompanied by a myriad of marine predators, serves as a poignant reminder of the interconnectedness and diversity of life in our oceans. As we continue to explore and appreciate the wonders of the Sardine Run, let us also be mindful of our role as custodians of this precious ecosystem andwork towards preserving it for future generations to witness and cherish. So, if you ever get a chance to witness the Sardine Run, don’t hesitate! Bookings for 2024 with Walter Bernardis and African Watersports are now open! Dive into the depths of the ocean and let the marvels of this extraordinary event leave an indelible mark on your heart and soul. Happy Hunting!